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I would try a local van or truck centre. They are likely to carryout this work for you.
I don’t think you need a specialist.A T4 will almost certainly have the mounting points for the dual seat, as they would added at the factory.
As for T2/T25 or a Bedford I’m not sure. You would need to check the vehicle or maybe do some research of old vehicles.
Most T4s have a useful dual set that completely folds flat, making it a type of table.
Also, T4 seats can completely spin around with the correct swivel base:
https://www.kiravans.co.uk/t4-double-seat-swivel-uk-right-hand-drive-model/Hi
Yes, it’s quite possible to change a single front seat for a dual passenger seat.
All panels vans can be fitted with both.
You need the base and the seat.
You will find a lot of people doing their own conversions how are getting rid of a double seat and want a single seat.
So, if you look around on eBay you should be able to find these, and maybe do a swap with the seller.Hi Bernadette
Nice to hear from you, and of your adventures.
Sounds like you are going to have fun exploring in your new conversion.
Campervans are a great way of slowly building up your driving miles.The rear door mounted carrier is easier to live with, as opening the doors is much easier.
Only a light box can be mounted on these, perhaps 20kgs or less of total weight. Assuming you are not carrying bikes as the same time.
It never seems a good idea to me to put boxes on these carries though.I suspect their disclaimer of not using bike covers is to reduce drag when driving. The drag of a loose/flapping cover will cause additional force on the carrier.
I suspect you will be fine if you use bike covers, but ensure they are very well tied down to the bikes, to ensure no parts are flapping.Roof vents are the biggest cause of leaks in a campervan.
Sikaflex 221 or 512 is the best sealant to use. It’s extremely good.
If you already have a big build up of old or bad sealant, clean that all off first. Then apply fresh Sikaflex.
If you don’t use the vent it is worth considering removing it.
However, I suspect it’s easier to fix with Sikaflex.Hi !
Sounds like a great project.
What are your plans once you have done the conversion?
Will you stay in the UK?Sounds like the idle speed is too low, or the carburettor idle jet is blocked and needs cleaning.
Worth giving the carburettor overhaul to try and resolve the problem.I’ve visited lots of European cities with a small campervan, and a large one.
I would either park at a camp site, or close to the city and then take public transport, or cycle to the city centres.
Parking a campervan (that isn’t too big) is not much of a problem in most European cities. Just don’t get too close to the centre.
A campervan allows you to camp at places like quiet beaches and Aires, where as a caravan/trailer requires you to always go to a campsite.Hi dunc78
It all depends on who did the conversion.
Is it a professional conversion or perhaps a local company?
If local they might be able to guide you.Hi
This looks like a great setup.
You are dealing with a lot of solar power here, with 900W. So you’ll need a good quality charge controller.I would suggest a MPPT controller that can easily handle the maximum amount the solar panels will generate.
Leave another 20% of headroom on the solar panels. So if they suggest 900W output from the panels, get a controller that can handle 1,080W. Mount the controller so that it has lots of air circulation for cooling. Ensure you use cable that is thick enough to avoid voltage drop.Some info on PWM and MPPT controllers.
“The PWM controller is in essence a switch that connects a solar array to the battery. The result is that
the voltage of the array will be pulled down to near that of the battery.
The MPPT controller is more sophisticated (and more expensive): it will adjust its input voltage to
harvest the maximum power from the solar array and then transform this power to supply the
varying voltage requirement of the battery plus load. Thus, it essentially decouples the array and
battery voltages so that there can be, for example, a 12 volt battery on”You don’t need to consider the alternator very much.
When the engine is running and the alternator will be generating about 14 volts.
The solar controller will sense this and it will not attempt to charge the batteries as it will consider them full.
Only when the engine stops, and the voltage drops to 12.7 (or so) will the solar controller attempt to top-up the batteries again.Hi Stevo
Yours sounds like an amazing vehicle.
You seem ready for all seasons, which is a great way to approach it.
I like you plans for the mountains, and great idea to rent our during the festival. I bet property prices are high then?Hi
If you are looking to wild camp it’s worth doing some Google searches to see if anyone is recommending any sites.
If you want to stay in campsites, try using Google maps to find campsites in the area, and then check if they are open.
Most campsites will have closed during the winter, but the occasional site does stay open.No reason why it wouldn’t
No reason why it wouldn’t work.
As you say, proper van awnings have a flap to connect the vehicle to the awning. A bit of tarp will do. Just ensure it is attached to the van in some way.Hi guys
Nice to hear from you
Hi guysNice to hear from you both.
Try not to be daunted Suzie_P, things are general easier than you might think once you find the information you are after.
Roger, you have a great looking vehicle. Would love something like this myself when I visit the USA.
I’ve got a Mercedes Sprinter which I’ve used to tour Europe several times.
