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Im not sure about anything
Im not sure about anything specific to VWs but I have always been told by friends in the motor trade that underseal is a bad idea. It can crack and allow water to trap under the seal causing rust. I have used waxoil on a Land Rover which seemed to do a good job (although old Land Rovers have solid chasis which are a bit different from most vans). Another car and land rover dealer I knew swore by old engine oil, but old engine oil can cause skin cancer and is probably a bad idea.stuartParticipantIm not sure about anything
Im not sure about anything specific to VWs but I have always been told by friends in the motor trade that underseal is a bad idea. It can crack and allow water to trap under the seal causing rust. I have used waxoil on a Land Rover which seemed to do a good job (although old Land Rovers have solid chasis which are a bit different from most vans). Another car and land rover dealer I knew swore by old engine oil, but old engine oil can cause skin cancer and is probably a bad idea.stuartParticipantIm not sure about anything
Im not sure about anything specific to VWs but I have always been told by friends in the motor trade that underseal is a bad idea. It can crack and allow water to trap under the seal causing rust. I have used waxoil on a Land Rover which seemed to do a good job (although old Land Rovers have solid chasis which are a bit different from most vans). Another car and land rover dealer I knew swore by old engine oil, but old engine oil can cause skin cancer and is probably a bad idea.stuartParticipantThanks for the reply. The bed
Thanks for the reply. The bed is supported on one side by the frame of the box and supported down the middle. The box is a bit larger than 1/2 the bed. The part that extends beyond the box is 400mm wide supported on one side by the box frame and piano hinge to the box/bed top. The bed is around 2m long. The extended part is supported on the other side by a wood ledge that is 1100mm long then a gap of around 400mm then sits on the box (it is L shaped). So the extended board is supported completely along on long side, along the other with a gap 400m and supported (width wise) completely at the head end. At the foot end it is unsuppported width wise.stuartParticipantThanks for the reply. The bed
Thanks for the reply. The bed is supported on one side by the frame of the box and supported down the middle. The box is a bit larger than 1/2 the bed. The part that extends beyond the box is 400mm wide supported on one side by the box frame and piano hinge to the box/bed top. The bed is around 2m long. The extended part is supported on the other side by a wood ledge that is 1100mm long then a gap of around 400mm then sits on the box (it is L shaped). So the extended board is supported completely along on long side, along the other with a gap 400m and supported (width wise) completely at the head end. At the foot end it is unsuppported width wise.stuartParticipantThanks for the reply. The bed
Thanks for the reply. The bed is supported on one side by the frame of the box and supported down the middle. The box is a bit larger than 1/2 the bed. The part that extends beyond the box is 400mm wide supported on one side by the box frame and piano hinge to the box/bed top. The bed is around 2m long. The extended part is supported on the other side by a wood ledge that is 1100mm long then a gap of around 400mm then sits on the box (it is L shaped). So the extended board is supported completely along on long side, along the other with a gap 400m and supported (width wise) completely at the head end. At the foot end it is unsuppported width wise.stuartParticipantthanks for the reply.
thanks for the reply.stuartParticipantthanks for the reply.
thanks for the reply.stuartParticipantthanks for the reply.
thanks for the reply.stuartParticipantI recently insulated my van
I recently insulated my van with this stuff. http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/shop/c/insulation/p/campervan-insulation.
It says its non toxic but not sure of the details. It was easy stuff to work with and thin so does not take much space. I was advised to fix to the van with duck tape leaving it loose to allow an air gap. i used duck tape and where this was difficult stuck it with trimfix. It us suitable for sides, roof and floor before ply linning.stuartParticipantI recently insulated my van
I recently insulated my van with this stuff. http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/shop/c/insulation/p/campervan-insulation.
It says its non toxic but not sure of the details. It was easy stuff to work with and thin so does not take much space. I was advised to fix to the van with duck tape leaving it loose to allow an air gap. i used duck tape and where this was difficult stuck it with trimfix. It us suitable for sides, roof and floor before ply linning.stuartParticipantI recently insulated my van
I recently insulated my van with this stuff. http://www.campervanconversion.co.uk/shop/c/insulation/p/campervan-insulation.
It says its non toxic but not sure of the details. It was easy stuff to work with and thin so does not take much space. I was advised to fix to the van with duck tape leaving it loose to allow an air gap. i used duck tape and where this was difficult stuck it with trimfix. It us suitable for sides, roof and floor before ply linning.stuartParticipantConversion insurance
I had the same problem. My insurance would insure a van or camper but not if using it during the conversion. I found a company Adrian Flux who will insure vans while converting. I think they advertise on this site.Stuart
stuartParticipantConversion insurance
I had the same problem. My insurance would insure a van or camper but not if using it during the conversion. I found a company Adrian Flux who will insure vans while converting. I think they advertise on this site.Stuart
stuartParticipantConversion insurance
I had the same problem. My insurance would insure a van or camper but not if using it during the conversion. I found a company Adrian Flux who will insure vans while converting. I think they advertise on this site.Stuart
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