DAVEY

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 64 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Planning our 6 month Europe adventure! :) #120174
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Lockable storage unit
    How about installing a safe ? This is the one I have http://www.screwfix.com/p/security-safe-16-3ltr/70942 bolted down to the floor of My van under the bed. Other sizes are available to suit the size of the intended contents and available space in the van. (Just check with Your insurance company to see if this is acceptable)

    Davey.

    in reply to: Planning our 6 month Europe adventure! :) #120172
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Lockable storage unit
    How about installing a safe ? This is the one I have http://www.screwfix.com/p/security-safe-16-3ltr/70942 bolted down to the floor of My van under the bed. Other sizes are available to suit the size of the intended contents and available space in the van. (Just check with Your insurance company to see if this is acceptable)

    Davey.

    in reply to: Planning our 6 month Europe adventure! :) #120171
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Lockable storage unit
    How about installing a safe ? This is the one I have http://www.screwfix.com/p/security-safe-16-3ltr/70942 bolted down to the floor of My van under the bed. Other sizes are available to suit the size of the intended contents and available space in the van. (Just check with Your insurance company to see if this is acceptable)

    Davey.

    in reply to: Cutting holes for venting? #119632
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Venting
    It’s best to keep the gas bottles in a separate place to the batteries as an electric spark could ignite any escaping gas and cause an explosion.
    Also the gas from the battery is hydrogen which is lighter than air so would not sink out of a vent at the bottom of the storage locker.
    The leisure battery in My van has 2 vent holes near the top of the battery casing. so I fitted vent tubes in the holes, stuck in with silicone. These run in to a T piece and then a single pipe goes out through a small hole in the floor, again sealed with silicone.This allows any battery gas to escape and avoids cutting a big vent hole in the bodywork. Just make sure the pipe does not exit near the hot exhaust!

    in reply to: Cutting holes for venting? #119630
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Venting
    It’s best to keep the gas bottles in a separate place to the batteries as an electric spark could ignite any escaping gas and cause an explosion.
    Also the gas from the battery is hydrogen which is lighter than air so would not sink out of a vent at the bottom of the storage locker.
    The leisure battery in My van has 2 vent holes near the top of the battery casing. so I fitted vent tubes in the holes, stuck in with silicone. These run in to a T piece and then a single pipe goes out through a small hole in the floor, again sealed with silicone.This allows any battery gas to escape and avoids cutting a big vent hole in the bodywork. Just make sure the pipe does not exit near the hot exhaust!

    in reply to: Cutting holes for venting? #119622
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Venting
    It’s best to keep the gas bottles in a separate place to the batteries as an electric spark could ignite any escaping gas and cause an explosion.
    Also the gas from the battery is hydrogen which is lighter than air so would not sink out of a vent at the bottom of the storage locker.
    The leisure battery in My van has 2 vent holes near the top of the battery casing. so I fitted vent tubes in the holes, stuck in with silicone. These run in to a T piece and then a single pipe goes out through a small hole in the floor, again sealed with silicone.This allows any battery gas to escape and avoids cutting a big vent hole in the bodywork. Just make sure the pipe does not exit near the hot exhaust!

    in reply to: Electrical shenanigans #120296
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Electric hook up
    The electric hook up on My renault trafic is a garage consumer unit attached just inside the right (driver;s side) rear door.the output side runs to a 4 way surge protected extension lead fixed to the channel where the high top connects to the standard body. Minimal cabling, keep it simple!
    The input side is just a short cable with a 240 volt round blue plug, like the ones on a mains hook up lead. This plugs in to the female socket on a standard mains lead and the other end goes in to the camp site power supply.
    I run the mains lead out through the back doors. The rubber door seal is soft enough to allow the lead to fit through without damage to the lead or the door seal.
    (I prefer to use the sliding side door to get in and out as the back doors on the high top are quite heavy and difficult to close from inside the van)

    RIVNUTS
    I used these to re fit the original plastic lining panels after removing them to insulate the van. The ones I used had a 5 mm thread and worked fine for the lining panels.If You are using ply and fixing other fittings to it You might need bigger ones.
    I made an instalation tool from a strip of steel a bolt and 2 nuts and washers.
    put the nuts on to the bolt and tighten them against each other, then put the washers over the bolt. drill a hole in the metal strip just big enough for the bolt to pass through. cut the head off the bolt and fit it in the chuck of a cordless drill.
    put the bolt through the hole in the metal strip and fit the rivnut to the other side. Push the rivnut in to the hole in the panel then use the drill to pull the fastener up tight. (a drop of oil on the thread helps here) Then reverse the drill to remove the tool.The threads on the bolt will wear out so You might need to make several tools if You have a lot of fasteners to fit.

    in reply to: Electrical shenanigans #120298
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Electric hook up
    The electric hook up on My renault trafic is a garage consumer unit attached just inside the right (driver;s side) rear door.the output side runs to a 4 way surge protected extension lead fixed to the channel where the high top connects to the standard body. Minimal cabling, keep it simple!
    The input side is just a short cable with a 240 volt round blue plug, like the ones on a mains hook up lead. This plugs in to the female socket on a standard mains lead and the other end goes in to the camp site power supply.
    I run the mains lead out through the back doors. The rubber door seal is soft enough to allow the lead to fit through without damage to the lead or the door seal.
    (I prefer to use the sliding side door to get in and out as the back doors on the high top are quite heavy and difficult to close from inside the van)

    RIVNUTS
    I used these to re fit the original plastic lining panels after removing them to insulate the van. The ones I used had a 5 mm thread and worked fine for the lining panels.If You are using ply and fixing other fittings to it You might need bigger ones.
    I made an instalation tool from a strip of steel a bolt and 2 nuts and washers.
    put the nuts on to the bolt and tighten them against each other, then put the washers over the bolt. drill a hole in the metal strip just big enough for the bolt to pass through. cut the head off the bolt and fit it in the chuck of a cordless drill.
    put the bolt through the hole in the metal strip and fit the rivnut to the other side. Push the rivnut in to the hole in the panel then use the drill to pull the fastener up tight. (a drop of oil on the thread helps here) Then reverse the drill to remove the tool.The threads on the bolt will wear out so You might need to make several tools if You have a lot of fasteners to fit.

    in reply to: Electrical shenanigans #120300
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Electric hook up
    The electric hook up on My renault trafic is a garage consumer unit attached just inside the right (driver;s side) rear door.the output side runs to a 4 way surge protected extension lead fixed to the channel where the high top connects to the standard body. Minimal cabling, keep it simple!
    The input side is just a short cable with a 240 volt round blue plug, like the ones on a mains hook up lead. This plugs in to the female socket on a standard mains lead and the other end goes in to the camp site power supply.
    I run the mains lead out through the back doors. The rubber door seal is soft enough to allow the lead to fit through without damage to the lead or the door seal.
    (I prefer to use the sliding side door to get in and out as the back doors on the high top are quite heavy and difficult to close from inside the van)

    RIVNUTS
    I used these to re fit the original plastic lining panels after removing them to insulate the van. The ones I used had a 5 mm thread and worked fine for the lining panels.If You are using ply and fixing other fittings to it You might need bigger ones.
    I made an instalation tool from a strip of steel a bolt and 2 nuts and washers.
    put the nuts on to the bolt and tighten them against each other, then put the washers over the bolt. drill a hole in the metal strip just big enough for the bolt to pass through. cut the head off the bolt and fit it in the chuck of a cordless drill.
    put the bolt through the hole in the metal strip and fit the rivnut to the other side. Push the rivnut in to the hole in the panel then use the drill to pull the fastener up tight. (a drop of oil on the thread helps here) Then reverse the drill to remove the tool.The threads on the bolt will wear out so You might need to make several tools if You have a lot of fasteners to fit.

    in reply to: Floor Insulation? #121604
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Floor Insulation
    I’ve bought a load of cheap (£5 each) closed cell foam camping mats, the ones back packers often have strapped to the top of their rucksacks, to insulate the floor of My Renault Trafic.
    These will be laid over the existing plywood floor with lino over the top. 6 is enough to do the entire floor for £30. The mats are very effective insulation, if You rest your hand on them Your hand soon feels warm.

    They give the floor a nice soft feel, almost like carpet but the lino is much easier to keep clean, which is useful if You are wild camping or staying on a muddy campsite.

    Thermal carpet underlay would probably be cheaper if You can find anywhere that sells the stuff in the small quantity You would need.

    in reply to: Floor Insulation? #121600
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Floor Insulation
    I’ve bought a load of cheap (£5 each) closed cell foam camping mats, the ones back packers often have strapped to the top of their rucksacks, to insulate the floor of My Renault Trafic.
    These will be laid over the existing plywood floor with lino over the top. 6 is enough to do the entire floor for £30. The mats are very effective insulation, if You rest your hand on them Your hand soon feels warm.

    They give the floor a nice soft feel, almost like carpet but the lino is much easier to keep clean, which is useful if You are wild camping or staying on a muddy campsite.

    Thermal carpet underlay would probably be cheaper if You can find anywhere that sells the stuff in the small quantity You would need.

    in reply to: Floor Insulation? #121602
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Floor Insulation
    I’ve bought a load of cheap (£5 each) closed cell foam camping mats, the ones back packers often have strapped to the top of their rucksacks, to insulate the floor of My Renault Trafic.
    These will be laid over the existing plywood floor with lino over the top. 6 is enough to do the entire floor for £30. The mats are very effective insulation, if You rest your hand on them Your hand soon feels warm.

    They give the floor a nice soft feel, almost like carpet but the lino is much easier to keep clean, which is useful if You are wild camping or staying on a muddy campsite.

    Thermal carpet underlay would probably be cheaper if You can find anywhere that sells the stuff in the small quantity You would need.

    in reply to: Meths stoves #121712
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Meths Stove
    10 Minutes to boil 1 litre of water? I hope You’re not in a hurry for Your cup of tea!
    Also if You have to buy a new stove how does the cost compare to having the one You already have connected up?
    Also why does the gas locker have to be accessible from outside? could You not just have a vent in the side of the van, near the bottom of the locker? This would let any leaking gas escape outside and a sealed door inside the the van would prevent gas leaking in to the van, while allowing You access to change the bottle.
    (It’s always safest to turn the gas off while You are travelling to prevent leaks anyhow)

    Sorry if this sounds negative but I have seen people using meths powered camping stoves (usually made by Trangia) and they are slow!

    in reply to: Meths stoves #121716
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Meths Stove
    10 Minutes to boil 1 litre of water? I hope You’re not in a hurry for Your cup of tea!
    Also if You have to buy a new stove how does the cost compare to having the one You already have connected up?
    Also why does the gas locker have to be accessible from outside? could You not just have a vent in the side of the van, near the bottom of the locker? This would let any leaking gas escape outside and a sealed door inside the the van would prevent gas leaking in to the van, while allowing You access to change the bottle.
    (It’s always safest to turn the gas off while You are travelling to prevent leaks anyhow)

    Sorry if this sounds negative but I have seen people using meths powered camping stoves (usually made by Trangia) and they are slow!

    in reply to: Meths stoves #121720
    DAVEY
    Participant

    Meths Stove
    10 Minutes to boil 1 litre of water? I hope You’re not in a hurry for Your cup of tea!
    Also if You have to buy a new stove how does the cost compare to having the one You already have connected up?
    Also why does the gas locker have to be accessible from outside? could You not just have a vent in the side of the van, near the bottom of the locker? This would let any leaking gas escape outside and a sealed door inside the the van would prevent gas leaking in to the van, while allowing You access to change the bottle.
    (It’s always safest to turn the gas off while You are travelling to prevent leaks anyhow)

    Sorry if this sounds negative but I have seen people using meths powered camping stoves (usually made by Trangia) and they are slow!

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 64 total)