[ithody]

All good points. I appreciate
All good points. I appreciate the comments.

Looking for offers over £800 and have updated my post accordingly. It’s still a lot of van for that money, even if it needs a scrub-up and MOT. I’m actually advertising the van for someone else who is not able to work on it. I can’t do the work to get it through it’s MOT as I don’t live close enough and don’t have the time anyway. But having looked over the van when taking the pics I don’t believe there will be too much to do except standard wear and tear items like bushes. With only 73K miles on the clock it’s barely run in for a Merc. But clearly that’s purely my opinion. Just thought I’d offer it to folks specifically interested in campervan conversions before listing on Ebay. Either way, someone will be getting a bargain.

[ithody]

All good points. I appreciate
All good points. I appreciate the comments.

Looking for offers over £800 and have updated my post accordingly. It’s still a lot of van for that money, even if it needs a scrub-up and MOT. I’m actually advertising the van for someone else who is not able to work on it. I can’t do the work to get it through it’s MOT as I don’t live close enough and don’t have the time anyway. But having looked over the van when taking the pics I don’t believe there will be too much to do except standard wear and tear items like bushes. With only 73K miles on the clock it’s barely run in for a Merc. But clearly that’s purely my opinion. Just thought I’d offer it to folks specifically interested in campervan conversions before listing on Ebay. Either way, someone will be getting a bargain.

[ithody]

All good points. I appreciate
All good points. I appreciate the comments.

Looking for offers over £800 and have updated my post accordingly. It’s still a lot of van for that money, even if it needs a scrub-up and MOT. I’m actually advertising the van for someone else who is not able to work on it. I can’t do the work to get it through it’s MOT as I don’t live close enough and don’t have the time anyway. But having looked over the van when taking the pics I don’t believe there will be too much to do except standard wear and tear items like bushes. With only 73K miles on the clock it’s barely run in for a Merc. But clearly that’s purely my opinion. Just thought I’d offer it to folks specifically interested in campervan conversions before listing on Ebay. Either way, someone will be getting a bargain.

[ithody]

Yep, did all the work myself
Yep, did all the work myself except for the curtains and cushion covers.
Have to leave soft furnishing to wifey.

[ithody]

Yep, did all the work myself
Yep, did all the work myself except for the curtains and cushion covers.
Have to leave soft furnishing to wifey.

[ithody]

Yep, did all the work myself
Yep, did all the work myself except for the curtains and cushion covers.
Have to leave soft furnishing to wifey.

[ithody]

Yep, did all the work myself
Yep, did all the work myself except for the curtains and cushion covers.
Have to leave soft furnishing to wifey.

[ithody]

Split charge relay query
Hi Millie,

The purpose of a split charge relay setup is to split the charge that your van alternator generates between your van battery and an additional leisure battery – while the van is running. It has no bearing when you’re stationary and living in the van. There should be no issue with over-charging of your leisure battery through this setup.

Your Zig CF8 unit should be an “intelligent charger” which will only charge your leisure battery (when connected to 240v mains) if it needs it, and avoids any over-charging.

For your fridge 12v setup you’ll need a dedicated 12v connection from your van battery (NOT your leisure battery) through a 12v relay which is only switched ON when your van is running. (This relay is usually controlled by the same signal that switches your split charge relay ON. Typically from your alternator output signal.) This ensures the 12v supply to your fridge is ONLY live when your van is running and continually charging your van battery. And does nothing to de-pleat your leisure battery.

For your fridge 240v setup you’ll need a dedicated 240v mains connection from your 240v hook-up, typically through an RCD-protected consumer unit for safety. As a minimum you should connect through a 5amp fused spur.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Split charge relay query
Hi Millie,

The purpose of a split charge relay setup is to split the charge that your van alternator generates between your van battery and an additional leisure battery – while the van is running. It has no bearing when you’re stationary and living in the van. There should be no issue with over-charging of your leisure battery through this setup.

Your Zig CF8 unit should be an “intelligent charger” which will only charge your leisure battery (when connected to 240v mains) if it needs it, and avoids any over-charging.

For your fridge 12v setup you’ll need a dedicated 12v connection from your van battery (NOT your leisure battery) through a 12v relay which is only switched ON when your van is running. (This relay is usually controlled by the same signal that switches your split charge relay ON. Typically from your alternator output signal.) This ensures the 12v supply to your fridge is ONLY live when your van is running and continually charging your van battery. And does nothing to de-pleat your leisure battery.

For your fridge 240v setup you’ll need a dedicated 240v mains connection from your 240v hook-up, typically through an RCD-protected consumer unit for safety. As a minimum you should connect through a 5amp fused spur.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Split charge relay query
Hi Millie,

The purpose of a split charge relay setup is to split the charge that your van alternator generates between your van battery and an additional leisure battery – while the van is running. It has no bearing when you’re stationary and living in the van. There should be no issue with over-charging of your leisure battery through this setup.

Your Zig CF8 unit should be an “intelligent charger” which will only charge your leisure battery (when connected to 240v mains) if it needs it, and avoids any over-charging.

For your fridge 12v setup you’ll need a dedicated 12v connection from your van battery (NOT your leisure battery) through a 12v relay which is only switched ON when your van is running. (This relay is usually controlled by the same signal that switches your split charge relay ON. Typically from your alternator output signal.) This ensures the 12v supply to your fridge is ONLY live when your van is running and continually charging your van battery. And does nothing to de-pleat your leisure battery.

For your fridge 240v setup you’ll need a dedicated 240v mains connection from your 240v hook-up, typically through an RCD-protected consumer unit for safety. As a minimum you should connect through a 5amp fused spur.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Split charge relay query
Hi Millie,

The purpose of a split charge relay setup is to split the charge that your van alternator generates between your van battery and an additional leisure battery – while the van is running. It has no bearing when you’re stationary and living in the van. There should be no issue with over-charging of your leisure battery through this setup.

Your Zig CF8 unit should be an “intelligent charger” which will only charge your leisure battery (when connected to 240v mains) if it needs it, and avoids any over-charging.

For your fridge 12v setup you’ll need a dedicated 12v connection from your van battery (NOT your leisure battery) through a 12v relay which is only switched ON when your van is running. (This relay is usually controlled by the same signal that switches your split charge relay ON. Typically from your alternator output signal.) This ensures the 12v supply to your fridge is ONLY live when your van is running and continually charging your van battery. And does nothing to de-pleat your leisure battery.

For your fridge 240v setup you’ll need a dedicated 240v mains connection from your 240v hook-up, typically through an RCD-protected consumer unit for safety. As a minimum you should connect through a 5amp fused spur.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Thanks for the quick response
Thanks for the quick response Darren.
Will upload further pics to share.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Thanks for the quick response
Thanks for the quick response Darren.
Will upload further pics to share.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Thanks for the quick response
Thanks for the quick response Darren.
Will upload further pics to share.

Cheers, Ian

[ithody]

Thanks for the quick response
Thanks for the quick response Darren.
Will upload further pics to share.

Cheers, Ian

[Author]

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