Charging leisure battery (old school)

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Flying Scotsman]

good point well made..
However… (you knew that was coming didn’t you?!)
The vehicle I had was a Bedford CF 1973. Simple charging circuits, simple electrics, nowt fancy here don’t ya know?

The switches were never operated while driving of course, only while parked up for camping, fuel, eating, drinking, sha… erm no.

The batteries couldn’t drain into the other, (a valid concern) because neither was ever that flat,(the point of the exercise) and both batteries were only connected when the engine was running, Therefore the alternator was charging both batteries and equalisation was minimal.

There was always the vehicle battery connected when driving, (so no damage to teh alternator)the leisure battery was switched in and out as required to charge it. Now in theory, rapid charging from an alternator COULD damage the leisure battery.
In theory.
But the amount of time it was ever connected, and the fact that there was another load on the circuit while driving, I never suffered any damage. I had the same battery for 5 years with no problems.

I used to sell batteries for a living, and know all about the effects of over charging, under charging, dead loading, etc. But in my experience, with a simple vehicle, and common sense, it worked. And worked well.

The whole point was avoid using diodes and fancy electrickery stuff. And in my experience, electronics fail. Often. Big chunky switches don’t.

[Bluebird]

KISS
Hello again

Keep It Stupidly Simple or KISS = the less complicated you make it, the less chance of it going wrong.

I didn’t mean in my earlier post that I was claiming my way was the only way to do it – absolutely not – just that I have found it the most effective and reliable system possible in my experience of converting and using many different vans.

“Different stokes for different folks” and “horses for courses” – as I live in my van full-time for much of the year and in the wildest places, I want something that’s rugged and as close to 100% reliable as will ever be possible in this life. A ‘big chunky switch’ won’t freeze in sub-zero temperatures or melt in a desert. I doubt I’d be as concerned if I was just visiting a campsite somewhere for a week.

Enjoy your camping..!

[Bluebird]

KISS
Hello again

Keep It Stupidly Simple or KISS = the less complicated you make it, the less chance of it going wrong.

I didn’t mean in my earlier post that I was claiming my way was the only way to do it – absolutely not – just that I have found it the most effective and reliable system possible in my experience of converting and using many different vans.

“Different stokes for different folks” and “horses for courses” – as I live in my van full-time for much of the year and in the wildest places, I want something that’s rugged and as close to 100% reliable as will ever be possible in this life. A ‘big chunky switch’ won’t freeze in sub-zero temperatures or melt in a desert. I doubt I’d be as concerned if I was just visiting a campsite somewhere for a week.

Enjoy your camping..!

[Author]

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