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Ah cool, I hadn’t thought
Ah cool, I hadn’t thought about the VSR being a feedback stopper.Part of my reason for using the relays, is because I wanted to get one really good charger so I can see the battery level and load stuff etc, instead of a 240v charger and a regulator. I already have a transformer, so if I get a really good charge regulator and some relays, it’ll save me to cost of a good 240v charger (provided it’s done well)
I had heard that the intelligent chargers prolong the life of the battery (ours is fitted in a small space, so it slightly more expensive and difficult to source than usual) and is a better charging solution, so if I wanted to have the alternator/starter battery power going through that rather than blunt battery to battery charging.
What you reminded me though, is the only thing that won’t be feedback protected in the Solar panel, since usually the regulator does this. A diode and/or a fuse should protect it though.
Ah cool, I hadn’t thought
Ah cool, I hadn’t thought about the VSR being a feedback stopper.Part of my reason for using the relays, is because I wanted to get one really good charger so I can see the battery level and load stuff etc, instead of a 240v charger and a regulator. I already have a transformer, so if I get a really good charge regulator and some relays, it’ll save me to cost of a good 240v charger (provided it’s done well)
I had heard that the intelligent chargers prolong the life of the battery (ours is fitted in a small space, so it slightly more expensive and difficult to source than usual) and is a better charging solution, so if I wanted to have the alternator/starter battery power going through that rather than blunt battery to battery charging.
What you reminded me though, is the only thing that won’t be feedback protected in the Solar panel, since usually the regulator does this. A diode and/or a fuse should protect it though.
Ah cool, I hadn’t thought
Ah cool, I hadn’t thought about the VSR being a feedback stopper.Part of my reason for using the relays, is because I wanted to get one really good charger so I can see the battery level and load stuff etc, instead of a 240v charger and a regulator. I already have a transformer, so if I get a really good charge regulator and some relays, it’ll save me to cost of a good 240v charger (provided it’s done well)
I had heard that the intelligent chargers prolong the life of the battery (ours is fitted in a small space, so it slightly more expensive and difficult to source than usual) and is a better charging solution, so if I wanted to have the alternator/starter battery power going through that rather than blunt battery to battery charging.
What you reminded me though, is the only thing that won’t be feedback protected in the Solar panel, since usually the regulator does this. A diode and/or a fuse should protect it though.
Depends on how you charge from it
I agree a voltage sensitive relay is the better way to go, trying to locate and wire a split charge system from the alternator can be difficult, it’s a proper mission to find the right wires from some cars/vans.There are generally 2 types of charger relay/split charger systems.
1. Activated by power in the alternator circuit. You have a relay that connects a cable from the alternator or van battery to the leisure battery, however this relay is open (the switch is open and the power doesn’t flow) until there is power in a circuit powered by the alternator. Usually this is the alternator charging light or something else that doesn’t actually get power until the engine is running.
2. Voltage sensitive relays. Easiest thing to fit, basically you connect the live from the starter battery to the relay, and the relay to the leisure battery, and earth it properly. For this relay, it starts charging the leisure battery when the voltage across the starter battery is over about 13.8v (the voltage across the starter battery when the engine is running is around 14v), and shut off, isolating the batteries, when the voltage across the starter drops to 12.8v.The type of relay depends on how you want to charge the leisure battery, if it’s direct from the starter battery, you want one with big amps and fuses like Andy said (pehaps like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121110586358) as replacing broken fuses is much cheaper than new relays, and less annoying than dead batteries.
If you have a DC charger (i.e. you want the power from the starter going to a proper charger, or a zig) you can have a lower amp one, however I’d still fuse it and check what the charger will draw.Hope that’s some help.
Depends on how you charge from it
I agree a voltage sensitive relay is the better way to go, trying to locate and wire a split charge system from the alternator can be difficult, it’s a proper mission to find the right wires from some cars/vans.There are generally 2 types of charger relay/split charger systems.
1. Activated by power in the alternator circuit. You have a relay that connects a cable from the alternator or van battery to the leisure battery, however this relay is open (the switch is open and the power doesn’t flow) until there is power in a circuit powered by the alternator. Usually this is the alternator charging light or something else that doesn’t actually get power until the engine is running.
2. Voltage sensitive relays. Easiest thing to fit, basically you connect the live from the starter battery to the relay, and the relay to the leisure battery, and earth it properly. For this relay, it starts charging the leisure battery when the voltage across the starter battery is over about 13.8v (the voltage across the starter battery when the engine is running is around 14v), and shut off, isolating the batteries, when the voltage across the starter drops to 12.8v.The type of relay depends on how you want to charge the leisure battery, if it’s direct from the starter battery, you want one with big amps and fuses like Andy said (pehaps like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121110586358) as replacing broken fuses is much cheaper than new relays, and less annoying than dead batteries.
If you have a DC charger (i.e. you want the power from the starter going to a proper charger, or a zig) you can have a lower amp one, however I’d still fuse it and check what the charger will draw.Hope that’s some help.
Depends on how you charge from it
I agree a voltage sensitive relay is the better way to go, trying to locate and wire a split charge system from the alternator can be difficult, it’s a proper mission to find the right wires from some cars/vans.There are generally 2 types of charger relay/split charger systems.
1. Activated by power in the alternator circuit. You have a relay that connects a cable from the alternator or van battery to the leisure battery, however this relay is open (the switch is open and the power doesn’t flow) until there is power in a circuit powered by the alternator. Usually this is the alternator charging light or something else that doesn’t actually get power until the engine is running.
2. Voltage sensitive relays. Easiest thing to fit, basically you connect the live from the starter battery to the relay, and the relay to the leisure battery, and earth it properly. For this relay, it starts charging the leisure battery when the voltage across the starter battery is over about 13.8v (the voltage across the starter battery when the engine is running is around 14v), and shut off, isolating the batteries, when the voltage across the starter drops to 12.8v.The type of relay depends on how you want to charge the leisure battery, if it’s direct from the starter battery, you want one with big amps and fuses like Andy said (pehaps like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121110586358) as replacing broken fuses is much cheaper than new relays, and less annoying than dead batteries.
If you have a DC charger (i.e. you want the power from the starter going to a proper charger, or a zig) you can have a lower amp one, however I’d still fuse it and check what the charger will draw.Hope that’s some help.
Generally, Solar panels need
Generally, Solar panels need to have a regulator (seems to be also know as a charge controller or an input regulator) between them and anything else, which will take the variable input from a Solar panel and intelligently use it to charge the battery (i.e. won’t try to apply charge if the battery is full, some of them have pretty decent charge capabilities).Are you planning to have an electric hookup? A Zig, when wired up to the hookup and leisure battery basically:
1. Supplies fused 240v power supply for a fridge
2. Transforms 240v to 12v (to power the built in 12v circuit and charger)
3. Has a 12v fuse box (power for lights, 12v fridge, water pumps, cigarette sockets, stereo etc)
4. Has a 12v charger for the leisure battery
5. When there is no hookup, pulls power from the leisure battery to power the 12v circuit.
Also, for the newer Zigs, they have a built in relay so that you can connect it to the car/van battery and it will charge the leisure battery *when the engine is running*.Basically, from what I’ve seen, if you want a Zig and a solar panel, it’ll mean you have 2 chargers for the leisure battery, and the solar panel would only charge the leisure battery if the charger in the Zig is switched off or has no power from the hookup/engine going to it.
As for Zigs, the older ones have fairly rubbish chargers, and the old one I had was far from silent. The newer Zig models CF8 or CF9 seem to be good (lots of people happy with them), or a PMS3 or PMS4. You’ll need to look at what they supply though, if you don’t want to charge from the engine, or you have a 240v fridge, one might be better than the other.
Hope this helps.
Generally, Solar panels need
Generally, Solar panels need to have a regulator (seems to be also know as a charge controller or an input regulator) between them and anything else, which will take the variable input from a Solar panel and intelligently use it to charge the battery (i.e. won’t try to apply charge if the battery is full, some of them have pretty decent charge capabilities).Are you planning to have an electric hookup? A Zig, when wired up to the hookup and leisure battery basically:
1. Supplies fused 240v power supply for a fridge
2. Transforms 240v to 12v (to power the built in 12v circuit and charger)
3. Has a 12v fuse box (power for lights, 12v fridge, water pumps, cigarette sockets, stereo etc)
4. Has a 12v charger for the leisure battery
5. When there is no hookup, pulls power from the leisure battery to power the 12v circuit.
Also, for the newer Zigs, they have a built in relay so that you can connect it to the car/van battery and it will charge the leisure battery *when the engine is running*.Basically, from what I’ve seen, if you want a Zig and a solar panel, it’ll mean you have 2 chargers for the leisure battery, and the solar panel would only charge the leisure battery if the charger in the Zig is switched off or has no power from the hookup/engine going to it.
As for Zigs, the older ones have fairly rubbish chargers, and the old one I had was far from silent. The newer Zig models CF8 or CF9 seem to be good (lots of people happy with them), or a PMS3 or PMS4. You’ll need to look at what they supply though, if you don’t want to charge from the engine, or you have a 240v fridge, one might be better than the other.
Hope this helps.
Generally, Solar panels need
Generally, Solar panels need to have a regulator (seems to be also know as a charge controller or an input regulator) between them and anything else, which will take the variable input from a Solar panel and intelligently use it to charge the battery (i.e. won’t try to apply charge if the battery is full, some of them have pretty decent charge capabilities).Are you planning to have an electric hookup? A Zig, when wired up to the hookup and leisure battery basically:
1. Supplies fused 240v power supply for a fridge
2. Transforms 240v to 12v (to power the built in 12v circuit and charger)
3. Has a 12v fuse box (power for lights, 12v fridge, water pumps, cigarette sockets, stereo etc)
4. Has a 12v charger for the leisure battery
5. When there is no hookup, pulls power from the leisure battery to power the 12v circuit.
Also, for the newer Zigs, they have a built in relay so that you can connect it to the car/van battery and it will charge the leisure battery *when the engine is running*.Basically, from what I’ve seen, if you want a Zig and a solar panel, it’ll mean you have 2 chargers for the leisure battery, and the solar panel would only charge the leisure battery if the charger in the Zig is switched off or has no power from the hookup/engine going to it.
As for Zigs, the older ones have fairly rubbish chargers, and the old one I had was far from silent. The newer Zig models CF8 or CF9 seem to be good (lots of people happy with them), or a PMS3 or PMS4. You’ll need to look at what they supply though, if you don’t want to charge from the engine, or you have a 240v fridge, one might be better than the other.
Hope this helps.
Adrian Flux here too
Because it was £250 cheaper as a campervan-in-conversion than as a panel van. Lovely!Adrian Flux here too
Because it was £250 cheaper as a campervan-in-conversion than as a panel van. Lovely!Adrian Flux here too
Because it was £250 cheaper as a campervan-in-conversion than as a panel van. Lovely!Mercedes Vito
I’ve got a 1999 (2.3 litre diesel) Vito, and a 2008 (2.1 litre diesel) Vito. Originally we were looking for a van that small enough to park in a multi story car park with ease so we could use it as a day to day vehicle if we needed to, and long enough that my 6’3 boyfriend would be able to lie down comfortably. The options were pretty much Vito or Transporter for size. We chose the Vito because the engines have pretty solid reputations and it had a tailgate model so we could open the back in the rain and be sheltered while taking off wet boots or hooking up, without traipsing all the mud inside.Our 1999 Vito drives like an old lumbering van, but then she is 15 years old and didn’t look like she’d ever had a service when we got her. The old Vitos get a bit rusty, but they are sturdy and engines are pretty much bullet proof. On the inside, in the back, there is a 50cm deep cupboard/unit and worktop the full length of the drivers side, and a 3/4 width rock and roll bed. The bed is roughly 1.1m wide by 1.8m long when folded out, which puts one end against the back tailgate, and at the front end you still have space to sit on the edge of the bed and put your boots on.
I think overall it’s about 2.4m long in the back by 1.75 at the widest point. I can check precisely if it’ll help.Our 2008 van is currently being converted, but it’s pretty much the same except that because it’s newer and been looked after, it’s a much nicer drive, she pulls quite nicely and it was a pleasant surprise to find it is actually possible for a van to accelerate uphill!
Mercedes Vito
I’ve got a 1999 (2.3 litre diesel) Vito, and a 2008 (2.1 litre diesel) Vito. Originally we were looking for a van that small enough to park in a multi story car park with ease so we could use it as a day to day vehicle if we needed to, and long enough that my 6’3 boyfriend would be able to lie down comfortably. The options were pretty much Vito or Transporter for size. We chose the Vito because the engines have pretty solid reputations and it had a tailgate model so we could open the back in the rain and be sheltered while taking off wet boots or hooking up, without traipsing all the mud inside.Our 1999 Vito drives like an old lumbering van, but then she is 15 years old and didn’t look like she’d ever had a service when we got her. The old Vitos get a bit rusty, but they are sturdy and engines are pretty much bullet proof. On the inside, in the back, there is a 50cm deep cupboard/unit and worktop the full length of the drivers side, and a 3/4 width rock and roll bed. The bed is roughly 1.1m wide by 1.8m long when folded out, which puts one end against the back tailgate, and at the front end you still have space to sit on the edge of the bed and put your boots on.
I think overall it’s about 2.4m long in the back by 1.75 at the widest point. I can check precisely if it’ll help.Our 2008 van is currently being converted, but it’s pretty much the same except that because it’s newer and been looked after, it’s a much nicer drive, she pulls quite nicely and it was a pleasant surprise to find it is actually possible for a van to accelerate uphill!
Mercedes Vito
I’ve got a 1999 (2.3 litre diesel) Vito, and a 2008 (2.1 litre diesel) Vito. Originally we were looking for a van that small enough to park in a multi story car park with ease so we could use it as a day to day vehicle if we needed to, and long enough that my 6’3 boyfriend would be able to lie down comfortably. The options were pretty much Vito or Transporter for size. We chose the Vito because the engines have pretty solid reputations and it had a tailgate model so we could open the back in the rain and be sheltered while taking off wet boots or hooking up, without traipsing all the mud inside.Our 1999 Vito drives like an old lumbering van, but then she is 15 years old and didn’t look like she’d ever had a service when we got her. The old Vitos get a bit rusty, but they are sturdy and engines are pretty much bullet proof. On the inside, in the back, there is a 50cm deep cupboard/unit and worktop the full length of the drivers side, and a 3/4 width rock and roll bed. The bed is roughly 1.1m wide by 1.8m long when folded out, which puts one end against the back tailgate, and at the front end you still have space to sit on the edge of the bed and put your boots on.
I think overall it’s about 2.4m long in the back by 1.75 at the widest point. I can check precisely if it’ll help.Our 2008 van is currently being converted, but it’s pretty much the same except that because it’s newer and been looked after, it’s a much nicer drive, she pulls quite nicely and it was a pleasant surprise to find it is actually possible for a van to accelerate uphill!
