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Hi All,
I am at the stage where I want to start putting partitions in my van but am having problems finding ways to screw things down – or up. The floor is no problem, I can screw the base of any partition down solidly into the floorboards, the ceiling and side of the van are the problem.http://www.springfast.co.uk/productlist.asp?cat=48
I’ve been looking at fittings such as those shown on the above link, but not sure if there are other ways of doing the job. My Citroen Relay (07) MWB has transverse formers across the width of the van which have various shapes and sizes of holes already drilled. I’d like to avoid drilling into the bodywork if I can.
Does anyone have any ideas on how fixing is normally done, please?
Ian
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I understand the use of
I understand the use of battens to fix walls and please forgive me, I am very green behind the ears as it were. But when fitting a partition, or kitchen unit, I would consider using a slot system, so the ply floor would have a precisely cut slot and the bottom of the partition would have a tongue, so once this is in place, its not going anywhere. You then do the same with the sides and roof panels. These could be slots in the solid panel, or two side panels butted, with half a slot each (more work), or with only one panel having the slot??? In fact, this does not need to that precise on the walls, as partition height being the critical factor. You can use a small wedge of wood/ply to tighten up the internal partition edge, taking up the slack, once glued, the wedge can be trimmed and of course the final flooring will cover this…laminate would be good.
Most partitions have further support, like seating and kitchen. There could be issues with partition flexion, but I don`t think so with a 15mm partition. If you fit a kitchen like this, you will need to screw things down, but only to stop the tongue jumping from the slots and this would only need to be a floor fixing.
As per my first post, I thought of this method, because of my desire to save weight. It might also allow you to escape the van`s logical fixing points. Be as critical as possible, because I would do this, so if I am wrong, I need to know.
Fitting Partitions
Thanks, Carl, you’ve now got me thinking. Your point about the extra support provided by adjacent structures is one I had not really thought about – having a tendency to view each item in isolation. I’m going to have to go and sit in the thing for an hour and give it some thought before I start cutting up bits of expensive timber.
Is it just me, or are wheel arches an absolute pain!
Ian
Fitting partitions
Thanks, Darren. After reading you answer I looked again and realised that I could fit strips of timber behind the double skinned sections of the van bodywork. I used a rigid ruler to check what length of timber I could slide into place. I cut the timber ( bits of 1 inch by half inch Oak left from a job) and chamfered the back edges to allow it to slide into place more easily. Slide into place then back a bit to slip behind the bodywork, then used a couple of screws to hold it in position. The screws only hold the timber in place, the actual strength comes from the timber being braced against the bodywork. I’ve attached a picture which hopefully will remove some of the confusion I’ve just caused!
Good solution, and a good
Good solution, and a good find.
Having the timber behind strut is perfect.
There are 2 common
There are 2 common approaches.
1. Glue wooden batters to the inside of the van metal work. A PU glue such as Sikaflex or something similar will glue the wood to the metal panel or strut very well. Each batten will need to be held in place until it sets.
Once set you can screw other wooden items (panels or battens) to them.
2. Drill pilot holes into the metal struts inside the van. Then use self tapping screws to secure the wooden panels onto the struts.
I have used the 2nd approach several times and had no problems.