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I am converting my ldv into a camper I will be putting a 100w solar panel on it, I have 2 110ah leisure batteries. Just need help with 2 things.
1. what regulator d=should I use a 10a, 20a 30a. does it make a difference which one I use.
2. what are the connectors/cable i need to connect my solar panel to the regulator.
any help would be good thanks
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
REPLY Solar Panel Help
Hi Chris,I just searched in google for “12v Solar Panel Regulators” and I quickly found this product which would more than suit your need and it also has isolated dual outputs so you can connected to you main and leisure batteries to keep them both topped up with out worrying about draining you main battery. I have a fairly good knowledge of solar panels, maximum power point trackers (MPPT) and invertor systems, and the one piece of advice I would always give is buy quality if you want it to work consistently well for a long period. Chinese manufactured goods just do not (yet) cut the mustard as a general rule. This one seems to be made in Canada (makes sense with their culture of the outdoors).
http://www.selectsolar.co.uk/prod/299/eco-energy-dual-battery-solar-charge-regulator
If you want to understand technically what is going on in the panels and regulators (MPPT), have a read of this. You will see that by tilting the panel 30 degrees towards the south will also give you 13% output for you panel.
Don’t forget that you need to fuse/circuit breaker all of this to prevent fires. The only problem is when you get a short circuit on a solar panel, you get about an extra 5% current flow (compared with a battery that will give up to 5000% extra flow). Fuses/circuit beakers that are designed to blow/trip under these circumstances are again expensive. They are however essential. The same rule as before: you get what you pay for. Do not expect a cheap device to achieve the same level of safety as an expensive one… here is how the assembly, test and calibration is done in the cheaper factories. I suspect this unit would not prevent a fire in any circumstance. http://youtu.be/NrplvHS2Uf8
As far as cables go, you have 100W at 12v meaning that a 10A cable would suffice. Copper cable is copper cable at the end of the day, as in you local electrical wholesalers for some cable to handle 10A over a maximum run of 10m. I suspect that 2.5mm^2 could cover it, but check with the guy who knows in the specialist shop.
Good luck and get some photos up once you have it running.
Steve
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