Charging leisure battery (old school)

Home Forum topic Vehicle maintenance, suggestions and ideas Charging leisure battery (old school)

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 127 total)
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  • #150110
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150111
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150114
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150116
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150118
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150119
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150122
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150123
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150129
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150133
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150143
    kitesurfer
    Participant

    The biggest problem with your
    The biggest problem with your system is that it doesn’t make full use of your batteries capacities, meaning you need to carry more batteries to supply your electrical requirements. Space may not be important to you in which case it doesn’t matter, but to a lot of vans it is at a premium. This is where systems that take into account the fact that standard voltage regualtion as fitted to 99.9% of vehicles only charges batteries to about 70% of their actual capacity.
    100% charge can only be accomplished by more complicated charging systems. The one i have fitted i have fitted to 4 of my vans now over a period of 6 years and it has never failed me. These systems take into account factors such as voltage drop in your battery cable and temperature, both of which play a large factor in how much charge your batteries will take.
    Also from my frequent trips to the alps in the winter months having a starter battery that is fully charged all the time rather than just one tghat is at best 70% makes a huge difference when you want to start your van in -15 and lower degrees. So your big chunky switch might not freeze but at the same time your battery might not have enough juice to start your battery. I have seen it happen many times and had to jump start several stranded vans.
    KISS is fine but if everyone applied that thoery we’d still be living in the dark ages. But your system works for you so thats good.

    KS

    #150125
    Flying Scotsman
    Participant

    charge
    A battery (any 12volt battery, including leisure) is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts at rest. At a temperature of between 5 to 20c. Any lower and it is in a ‘discharge’ state.
    No vehicle, or for that matter any charger, can recharge to more than 90 to 95% charge outside of lab conditions.
    Check your battery after charging and it will show anything from 12.6 to 14 volts. However within a short time, about 15 mins usually does it, it will settle to its natural state. This state will vary dependent on age, temperature, physical condition.
    Then you will have an accurate reading. 12.6 is perfect, 12.2 is acceptable.
    In the systems describe above the vehicle system will recharge or ‘top up’ the battery to it’s natural state.
    Any vehicle battery should be charged at 10% of it’s ampere hour rating, NOT it’s CCA rating which is different.
    And if cold weather use is a concern you should fit a larger CCA rated battery than standard to allow for amperage drop in sub zero temperatures.
    e.g your vehicle may have a 300CCA battery. Which means it will provide 300 amps for 30 secs at 0.c But in sub zero temperatures this can drop to as little as 200 amps for the same 30 secs.
    For sub zero use we always recommended going up by 50% when replacing the battery. 300 to 450, 500 to 750 etc. This will provide the required power when you need it most without putting undue strain on the vehicle system.

    And carry jump leads!

    KISS will get you out of trouble… can be fixed with chewing gum and knicker elastic.. and is cheaper!

    #150127
    Flying Scotsman
    Participant

    charge
    A battery (any 12volt battery, including leisure) is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts at rest. At a temperature of between 5 to 20c. Any lower and it is in a ‘discharge’ state.
    No vehicle, or for that matter any charger, can recharge to more than 90 to 95% charge outside of lab conditions.
    Check your battery after charging and it will show anything from 12.6 to 14 volts. However within a short time, about 15 mins usually does it, it will settle to its natural state. This state will vary dependent on age, temperature, physical condition.
    Then you will have an accurate reading. 12.6 is perfect, 12.2 is acceptable.
    In the systems describe above the vehicle system will recharge or ‘top up’ the battery to it’s natural state.
    Any vehicle battery should be charged at 10% of it’s ampere hour rating, NOT it’s CCA rating which is different.
    And if cold weather use is a concern you should fit a larger CCA rated battery than standard to allow for amperage drop in sub zero temperatures.
    e.g your vehicle may have a 300CCA battery. Which means it will provide 300 amps for 30 secs at 0.c But in sub zero temperatures this can drop to as little as 200 amps for the same 30 secs.
    For sub zero use we always recommended going up by 50% when replacing the battery. 300 to 450, 500 to 750 etc. This will provide the required power when you need it most without putting undue strain on the vehicle system.

    And carry jump leads!

    KISS will get you out of trouble… can be fixed with chewing gum and knicker elastic.. and is cheaper!

    #150132
    Flying Scotsman
    Participant

    charge
    A battery (any 12volt battery, including leisure) is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts at rest. At a temperature of between 5 to 20c. Any lower and it is in a ‘discharge’ state.
    No vehicle, or for that matter any charger, can recharge to more than 90 to 95% charge outside of lab conditions.
    Check your battery after charging and it will show anything from 12.6 to 14 volts. However within a short time, about 15 mins usually does it, it will settle to its natural state. This state will vary dependent on age, temperature, physical condition.
    Then you will have an accurate reading. 12.6 is perfect, 12.2 is acceptable.
    In the systems describe above the vehicle system will recharge or ‘top up’ the battery to it’s natural state.
    Any vehicle battery should be charged at 10% of it’s ampere hour rating, NOT it’s CCA rating which is different.
    And if cold weather use is a concern you should fit a larger CCA rated battery than standard to allow for amperage drop in sub zero temperatures.
    e.g your vehicle may have a 300CCA battery. Which means it will provide 300 amps for 30 secs at 0.c But in sub zero temperatures this can drop to as little as 200 amps for the same 30 secs.
    For sub zero use we always recommended going up by 50% when replacing the battery. 300 to 450, 500 to 750 etc. This will provide the required power when you need it most without putting undue strain on the vehicle system.

    And carry jump leads!

    KISS will get you out of trouble… can be fixed with chewing gum and knicker elastic.. and is cheaper!

    #150137
    Flying Scotsman
    Participant

    charge
    A battery (any 12volt battery, including leisure) is considered fully charged at 12.6 volts at rest. At a temperature of between 5 to 20c. Any lower and it is in a ‘discharge’ state.
    No vehicle, or for that matter any charger, can recharge to more than 90 to 95% charge outside of lab conditions.
    Check your battery after charging and it will show anything from 12.6 to 14 volts. However within a short time, about 15 mins usually does it, it will settle to its natural state. This state will vary dependent on age, temperature, physical condition.
    Then you will have an accurate reading. 12.6 is perfect, 12.2 is acceptable.
    In the systems describe above the vehicle system will recharge or ‘top up’ the battery to it’s natural state.
    Any vehicle battery should be charged at 10% of it’s ampere hour rating, NOT it’s CCA rating which is different.
    And if cold weather use is a concern you should fit a larger CCA rated battery than standard to allow for amperage drop in sub zero temperatures.
    e.g your vehicle may have a 300CCA battery. Which means it will provide 300 amps for 30 secs at 0.c But in sub zero temperatures this can drop to as little as 200 amps for the same 30 secs.
    For sub zero use we always recommended going up by 50% when replacing the battery. 300 to 450, 500 to 750 etc. This will provide the required power when you need it most without putting undue strain on the vehicle system.

    And carry jump leads!

    KISS will get you out of trouble… can be fixed with chewing gum and knicker elastic.. and is cheaper!

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